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21 Sep 08 The Advantages Of A Digital Camera

Author: Roberto Sedycias

The has totally changed the way we take ; it has made the greatest impact in the world of since the Polaroid Instamatic camera. It is a great accessory to the present day computer; can be taken in an instant and loaded on to the computer, and emailed to a friend or a relative in the space of a few minutes. If you add a quality ink jet printer to your computer, you will not need to develop a roll of ever again.

The started out from a single 1 mega quality ; now they come in over 10 with huge print sizes, with amazing quality.

You may find it tough to decide which will fulfill your needs the best. You will have to undertake a bit of research, to help you to find the , with the proper , filters, external , - everything you need so that you can start taking , like a professional! Just spend a little time and figure out how you will be really using your , before you purchase one. Will it be for daily use, for special occasions like birthdays, family reunions? Will the price of the make a lot of difference?

The is also part of a new field of , in which you use a green or a blue background, and with special software like Corel Paint or PhotoShop, you can do wonders and create a new imaginative background. You can edit out the background and put in its place any of thousands of prepared indoors or outdoors backgrounds. There are multifunctional that can take not only but also video and sound. can be categorized as still cameras, and professional modular .

Since the market is so full of different models of , you have to select a that will suit your needs. They come in different price ranges, so you will not have any difficulty selecting one that will fit into your budget. Before buying a , your first consideration has to be the . A with a higher than what you require can prove to be a waste of money, processing power and . A large number of pixels do not necessarily mean a superior image, so be cautious. A lower is the best for posting to the web, to view on your computer, or to email files. You don`t always need a high capacity card, a small capacity card can also give high quality performance.

A can use its own and charger, or it can use double A size . A may connect to a computer for data transmission. The most usual method of connectivity is USB, but Fire wire port or Blue Tooth are also used. Some can connect to computer networks wirelessly.

One of the good things about a is that you do not have to spend anything on developing the at a local store, nor do you have to drive to the store and back. A gives you an instant feeling of gratification when you view the you have taken on the or on your personal computer. You also have the full freedom of editing your until you are fully satisfied with them!

You can select, save or delete without any cost involved. The are stored hundreds of media cards, so you can take as many as you wish before you run out of space.

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21 Sep 08 With the Canon Digital Camera Range the World Can be at your Fingertips

Author: wa Wanjiru

The different variety of cameras that are in use these days, range from the normal , to the , to the . And the best place to find all of these is in the range of models which are available on the market today..

is constantly updating its products and you have a wide range of styles and features available when you go in for a . These features can be found in many different like that of the Digital SD550, the Digital S2, and others of its ilk.

The features to be found on the different can range from a larger than average , to stereo sound recording, to low and others. To see what the various features are for the different you might have to compare them as you shop around.

For instance you will find that the S2 has a 5 , and a new Night Display which allows your LCD and EVH to become brighter in low light. You will also find movie options in this like mic level, and a wind filter which can’t be found in earlier models.

With the SD500 features like a continuous shooting mode can be found, as well as a option which has been designed into the camera via a built-in illuminator. This also has a 1.8 low temperature LCD, a Exposure Lock function to help you in your .

Some of the features to be found in these more expensive can also be found in the less expensive digital . This diversity in features and models is also reflected in the price of the many as they can start from about $100 and go upwards.

The actual price of the cameras should be looked into at the time you are thinking of buying your camera, as the prices will be subject to fluctuation and advances in technology.

When you’re looking at the range of besides finding out what are the various functions and features you might also want to find out what accessories are part of the camera, and which ones you’ll have to buy separately.

These accessories for the include things like a , a wide angle lens, a charger or kit, an A/C power adaptor, external , and a carrying case amongst other things.

As you can see from the number of options available to you, buying a camera isn’t what it used to be fifty years ago, there are a number of things that you will want to look into first before buying your camera. But with the range the world can be at your fingertips as you can choose the perfect camera to suit you.

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20 Sep 08 Basic Understanding of your Digital Camera Flash

Author: Chris Marshall

Many of us do not think twice about the usage of our ’s assuming that the camera will use the automatically as needed. however can and should be manually set in many scenarios resulting in high quality digital .

The most common usage of is when there is not enough ambient light for example when taking an indoor digital in a dark room. There are many other ways in which you can use your ’s to get high quality digital . One such usage is fill-in .

Before setting your to and making more efficient usage of it you should know a bit more of the technology and history behind . has been around for more than a century. During the early days of was implemented as a powder that was literally lit by either fire or electrical current. At that time was a risky business. today use a safe implementation by utilizing electronic tubes that are automatically synchronized with the camera’s shutter.

You have two options for using with your . The first option is using the internal . Practically all have build-in units. Most cameras also allow the usage of an external unit. Such units can be either mechanically attached to the or they can be connected to the camera via a cable and mechanically positioned on a tripod or any other mechanism. They are synchronized and controlled by the . External units vary in price and features. They can have different maximum light energy that they can emit and different mechanical (tilting, skewing).

In automatic mode the camera sensors evaluate the amount of ambient light in the scene. The fires the if the amount of ambient light is not high enough. There are limitations to the cameras automatic sensors resulting in either firing the when it was not needed or vice versa.

In some scenarios the usage of can result in poor digital . For example when the object is too close to the the light will be too strong and will wash out the object. Another example is in scenarios where the creates unwanted shadows in the digital . Yet another example is exaggeration of details such as when shooting a digital of an older person the skin wrinkles and imperfections details can be overly detailed.

’s units have a certain effective range. This is a limitation of how much light energy the unit can emit. Internal units usually have shorter range than external units. If the object in the is outside of the range the will not be effective and the object will be dark. On the other hand if the object is too close to the unit or the unit emits too much energy the object will be washed out. If your object is outside of your unit effective range you should turn off the and use slow shutter preferably with a tripod or another stabilizing mechanism. If your units allows the setting of the light energy that will be fired (usually by setting the distance to the object) make sure that it is set right to prevent washed out objects.

In some scenarios there will be enough ambient light to take a digital but without the usage of the the digital quality will be very poor. In such scenario if the camera is left on automatic mode it will not fire the . For example daytime with an object that is shadowed. If the object is wearing a hat it can create shades on the object’s face or when the object is lit from the side the object’s nose can create shades too. Putting the in manual fill-in mode will force the to fire. The will lit those shadowed areas and prevent the shades in the final digital . The object of course must be in effective range. Another example is an object that is lit from behind such as when taking a digital of an object against a sunset. Without a fill-in the will likely be just a dark silhouette of the object.

These were some basic concepts behind usage. There are many other advanced options for your . For example bounce can result in great digital in that mode instead of pointing the directly at the object it is pointed to some reflecting surface like a wall or a special reflector. The result is more natural light and color rich digital .

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18 Sep 08 Top 20 Questions to Consider When Buying a Digital Camera

Author: aldrin garcia

My top 20 key questions to ask yourself when buying a .

1. How many “” /?

Once and for all, at least to me, you have to get the highest your money can buy at the time you buy. Period.

2. Who made the lens?

Most cameras will give you an idea where the lens was made just by looking at the front of the lens. Know if the lens of your camera came from a reputable company like , Zeiss, , Etc… Lens quality is one of the most important factors you should consider especially if you’re going to use it for commercial, technical or scientific purposes.

3. Will I need interchangeable ? How many are available for my specific camera in mind?

Having the option of interchangeable gives you the freedom to experiment with different kinds of focal lengths. Although some P&S (point and shoot) cameras can rival ’s with a generous range for a non interchangeable lens system.

Also note the number of available for use with your specific camera because of flexibility reasons. You can practically cover the entire “ range” with interchangeable versus modest ranges on non interchangeable lens systems or P&S cameras.

4. Does it have a capability? What’s the range?

Almost all applications that I listed above will need some form of zooming in (telephoto) or out (wide angle), especially if you don’t have the space to move around the object you are shooting.

For Landscape shots, wide angle shots are very common and appealing while zooming in on the details serves as a break and complements the wide angle shots.

For weddings and events, you need a because there will be times where you are limited by the shooting space and you will have a difficult time moving around. Its a good thing to know that you can do all sorts of framing without even moving from your position.

A nice will give you the efficiency and versatility in your , so my suggestion is to go for the longest range you can get (usually from a 7X to a 10X for Point and Shoots).

Also note the speed of zooming in or out as this will be a factor if you’re shooting events like weddings. You will fail to capture that “decisive moment” on a mediocre speed.

5. Does it have the provision to capture raw ?

Many will say you’ll need this feature if you want to have big prints from your . Although this is correct, the main reason why you will want this is because of the benefit it will give you…pure total control of your … from exposure, color, metadata, hdr and a lot more.

6. Can I attach an external ?

Having an external capability will give you the power and creative freedom to light your subjects any which way you like.

You can connect your to all sorts of lighting equipment thus giving you more options and versatility. This comes in the form of a hotshoe or a PC-Sync socket.

If your doesn’t have this feature, there is still hope because accessories called slaves are being sold by third party companies in different flavors that will also do the same job more or less.

7. Does it have a tripod socket?

Some of the most beautiful landscape that I’ve seen are undoubtedly made with a tripod, so this is a must have if you are planning to do this kind of .

The “ shots” in a wedding, still life and product shots, studio and fine art shots … all need a tripod for successful execution… so guess what happens if you don’t have a tripod socket?… You cannot effectively use a tripod!

8. Does it have automatic and manual focusing?

It will not be evident at first why you’ll need this especially if you’re just starting out in . But if you’re like me… A total control freak when it comes to cameras… and you really want to express your creative side, this is definitely a must have.

9. Can you attach filters to it? and what filter size?

Creative expression through special effects is just one of the many reasons that makes fun and interesting, and experimenting with filters is one creative pursuit you should try with your especially if you’re a beginner.

Always remember to ask if the particular you are eyeing for can handle filters and ask for the filter size. (To save you from buying the right filter with the wrong filter size) Please note that most should be able to to handle filters as most that come with it have a filter thread built into the lens.

Most P&S (point and shoot) normally doesn’t have a filter thread built-in and might need special accessories to accomplish this so you should check to know for sure.

Again, there are many third party accessories that you could buy to adapt filters to your P&S that don’t have this provisions. I’ll discuss all about this in a future post so watch for it. (Or subscribe to my announcement list (feed via email) so you’ll know when it’s up.

10. Can I upgrade the firmware?

The good thing about some manufacturers is that they keep on improving their even after they sold it to you… this comes in the form of a firmware upgrade.

Usually this involves an improvement on one or many features of a camera. Be sure that the you’re planning to buy has an easy way of upgrading its firmware. This comes in the form of either an easy download via the manufacturer’s website (find it and bookmark it now) or a FREE CDROM.

Another caveat - be sure to consider if a downgrade is also possible or available with your … Why is there a need a downgrade you ask?… Because, you may want to reinstall an earlier firmware… just in case you don’t like the results from a firmware upgrade.

Occasionally there’s a feature that will be removed by the upgrade that you failed to read about and you decided that you just want to keep that feature instead of a bunch of trivial upgrades from the new firmware. (Yes, I personally experienced this.)

11. Are there extra goodies or software that come with it?

Some people ignore the fact that you can save a lot of money just by doing a simple arithmetic. Did you know that you could actually get your for a lot less if you study the deals and offers on the marketplace?

If you buy a and it comes with software that you can really use… like photoshop, elements, or any other software for that matter, then you already saved some money you would otherwise spend. Some dealers will throw in lots of extras… If you just simply ask.

Always try to ask for these things that you’ll end up buying anyway if you don’t - like camera bags, extra , extra , cards, tripod, etc. Trust me… you will end up buying these things if you don’t ask for it on the deal. What have you got to lose? Simply ASK. Would you believe that I effectively lowered one of my cost by as much as 30%? Ask away.

12. Is there Local Support in your area?

Finding the answer to this one will give you a great benefit in the long run. Wouldn’t you sleep better at night because you feel that extra security - that in case there is something wrong with your , you can bring it in for repair at a moments notice?

Not knowing when your camera will be repaired (or if it even arrived at a distant repair facility) is one of the worst feelings a can have especially if you’re in the middle of a photoshoot or project.

13. What type of warranty does it have? Worldwide / Countrywide?

If you travel a lot its good to know that a countrywide or even better - a worldwide warranty can get your camera fixed wherever you are. Always bring the warranty card and glue it on your camera bag.

14. Does it have the ability to take video and audio?

I know, most DSLRs don’t have this function. But some non interchangeable lens DSLRs have it. This is a very useful feature to have if you’re on a project or photoshoot and want to document or record a procedure, a moment, or an idea that you would otherwise have trouble remembering or even writing. It’s always a good idea to bring a P&S camera backup that have this function.

The things that you could do with audio and videoclips on a photoshoot are only limited by your imagination… interviews, documentation, funny quips, training procedures, bloopers, etc..

15. Does it have a manual ?

is one of the most interesting aspects of . Its fun and fascinating to work with. Having this option puts the fun-o-meter way way up. In future posts, I will be discussing in detail so be sure to stay tuned.

16. How sensitive is it to infrared?

If you’re planning to make infrared or enter the exciting world of Infrared fine art then you’ll want to know if your can do it.

TIP: There is a simple way to test how sensitive your is to infrared using a very common device - a TV remote control. For P&S, you can aim the remote control towards the lens and gauge how bright the LED from remote is. This should give you an idea how sensitive your is to infrared. For DSLRs you will need to take shots of the LED and experiment a little or you can simply research or the particular you have in mind for other people’s experiences and thoughts about it.

17. How high is the ISO sensitivity? Is it manually adjustable?

ISO sensitivity is a term referring to the sensitivity of to light. In the world, it refers to the sensitivity of the in your in relation to the ISO standard used for .

The higher the ISO sensitivity of your camera the faster or better it can record a specific amount of light.

High ISO sensitivity is useful for taking better in dark settings… such as inside a church or at night. The higher the ISO setting, the more details you can capture of a dark scene.

One caveat - take note of the amount of noise a particular camera exhibits at higher ISOs. Some people like it and some don’t. Again, don’t be afraid to ask or do research on the noise characteristics of your in mind to see if this is the right choice for you.

18. How high or low can you set the shutterspeed? What are the minimum and maximum aperture settings?

Shutterspeed and aperture settings are the basic mechanisms that drive your camera and controls the amount of light that is exposed by the or .

You use high shutterspeeds in action shots and to prevent camera shake, and you use low shutterspeeds for movement effects and bulb or long exposures. You can check for these figures on the websites that I gave you in part 1. You can see it in the technical specifications for a particular camera.

A bulb or “T” function is a nice feature to have because you can take exposures for virtually very long periods of time. Another feature to have is if your camera has a remote control to use this bulb or “T” mode. This gives you the capability to take without holding your camera and adding to the “camera shake”.

With the subject of apertures, a small one (small aperture opening) lets you have a wider depth of field so your shots are sharp from near to far versus a large aperture (big aperture opening) where your shots have a narrow depth of field and appear “selectively focused”.

19. Does it have some form of an ?

New cameras coming out as we speak often have this feature. Simply put, an is some form of a mechanism built into the lens or the (depending on the manufacturer and their implementation) that basically prevents you from getting blurred when taking in low light or you are using a long or . Having this feature can mean the difference between a blurry (aka no !) to a usable one.

20. How close can it focus? Macro abilities?

The closer your camera can focus… the bigger the of an object you can take in relation to the image dimensions of the final … and the bigger the of the object… the more detail you can get. If you want to take of small objects such as flowers and fine details then this is a must-have.

That’s it. Whew.

Do you really have to go over all these questions?… Of course not, but even if you only study and ponder on half of them…and take the time… I promise you that one thing will surely happen…

You’ll be…

a lot smarter!

than when you first started asking these questions… ergo you’ll be in a better position to decide what to buy… Because you are now armed with the most powerful tool anybody can have

the power of information!

In any case, I hope you find as much value in these questions as many of my friends have and be able to get the camera of your dreams.

Enjoy!

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18 Sep 08 You Need a Digital Camera Buying Guide

Copyright (c) 2008 Orlando Thompson

The best way to find out about is with a buying guide. You can find out all the information about each specific and what features the has as well as how they operate. The buying guide is a great place to start shopping. Some of the information in the guide will include the options, , and .

The information you find will help you choose a that will fit your needs. This is the most comprehensive guide for buying. You can get this guide in print or use the Internet, which has the same information. The buying guide has reviews of the , which should help you decide if the is worth the time and money.

The reviews come from testing the to see the ease of use and can explain how the features work or do not work. If you plan to buy a , you will find the buying guide very useful. For the first time user, this guide can be beneficial. If you already have a and want something comparable or better, the guide is where you should look.

You can find over thirty-five hundred reviews of when you look at the buying guide. Many online sites have all the information you need to decide which will work the best for you. The guide will help you with things that you need to consider when buying a . If you are looking for a professional or a for general , the buying guide will help you choose the best one.

Before you go and buy a , you need to compare different to find out which ones are highly rated plus which have all the features you are looking for.

It really depends largely on what you personally are looking for in a but these are comments of different personal wants and the features that they found important.

The Snapshooter

I want to take that I can e-mail to friends and family, post on the Web, or print in sizes smaller than 8×10 inches. I’d like a that is easy enough for the whole family to use and small enough to take anywhere. I’ll be printing on an inexpensive, all-purpose inkjet printer or getting prints from the local drugstore, though I’ll consider buying a printer if I like the enough. If this is your purpsose these are The specs that matter. It doesn’t matter. Most cameras on the market today have sufficient for your needs. Price $150 to $300, lens type (range encompassing at least 38mm to 114mm, equivalent) media Internal , , Stick, xD- Card, or Secure Digital/MultiMediaCard file format JPEG Interfaces USB, NTSC/PAL television connection, exposure controls automatic, programmed scene modes, exposure compensation (for tweaking the automatic exposure), focus controls automatic, modes automatic, fill, red-eye reduction, software stitching, album, slide show, multimedia VGA (640×480), 30fps video-clip recording with sound, other cool features to look for Direct-to-printer (PictBridge) output compatibility, in-camera red-eye removal, automatic exposure fix, optical or mechanical , .

The Trendsetter

I like to buy the newest, shiniest toys before anyone else does. I want to impress my friends and business associates with the latest technologies and coolest features, but not if it makes the product too complicated to use. Although I do want the best deal available the cost of the is not my number one concern. For the trendsetter the specs that matter are 8 or greater, price Less than $1,000 lens type (range encompassing at least 36mm to 108mm, equivalent), media Internal , , Stick, xD- Card, or SD/HC, file format JPEG, interfaces USB, HDMI, or component HDTV television connection, exposure controls automatic, programmed scene modes, exposure compensation (for tweaking the automatic exposure), focus controls automatic, modes automatic, fill, red-eye reduction Software -stitching, album, slide show, multimedia 720p (1,280×720) video-clip recording with sound and functioning during video, other cool features to look for Ultracompact design, Webcam , voice recording, Wi-Fi support, 3-inch LCD, simultaneous video and capture, 12X or greater optical , optical or mechanical , .

The Business user

I need to be able to shoot onsite or in the office, products and people for ads and publicity in print and on the Web, and get professional-looking results without hiring a pro. I need to get prints in a variety of ways, including from a color laser printer or quick-print shop. I have to share the camera with my coworkers. The specs that matter for the business user are 7 or greater, price $400 to $700, lens type (range encompassing at least 36mm to 130mm, equivalent), media , Stick, xD- Card, or SD/HC, file format JPEG or TIFF, interfaces USB, NTSC/PAL television connection, exposure controls automatic, aperture- and shutter-priority, manual, choice of metering modes, bracketing, focus controls automatic, manual modes automatic, fill, red-eye reduction, external compatibility, software editor; collaborative image sharing, multimedia voice recording, built-in speaker for audio playback, other cool features to look for Support for digital security, Wi-Fi, text-capture mode, world clock.

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17 Sep 08 Buying a Digital Camera

Family and friends can be pretty far flung these days, so how do you keep in touch? Snail mail and phoning are good options, but it’s fun to be able to share . With the advent of , it’s easy to post on a blog or website, or send via email.

Of course, cameras will work, as you can scan and convert to digital files, but the easiest way to send quickly and cheaply is to use a .

How To Find What’s Best For YOU When Buying A

There are all kinds of available these days, so the trick is to find the one that suits your needs and budget. If you are buying your first , the lingo and technology are a bit different than for cameras, so before shopping take time to learn a little and figure out what you’d like to buy.

First, what kind of are you? Do you like total control over the taking process, or would you rather just aim the camera and push the shutter button? Then it’s also helpful to decide what you want to do with your . Do you just want to put them online or send them via email, or do you want to be able to print them, and if so, how large do you want your prints?

If isn’t your passion, and you just want to have to share, buying a simple point-and-shoot is probably best. It has automatic settings, so all you have to do is aim the camera, press the shutter and viola! Instant !

However, if you prefer more control over the taking process, try buying a mid-range . There is a wide range in both price and features. For the more serious hobby , there are “prosumer” cameras midway between point-and-shoot cameras and cameras. They offer better lens quality and usually more features than a point-and-shoot, though those little cameras can come pretty loaded these days!

cameras are top of the line and more expensive. These work more like , having a body with detachable lens. This gives you more options with being able to change lens, but it’s also much more expensive. Just one lens can cost as much as a point-and-shoot ! There’s also usually a steeper learning curve to figure out how to use all the options on a camera.

However, if you’re buying your first , intermediate, “prosumer” and cameras probably aren’t the best choice. All the settings and features can be a little overwhelming for the beginner, and your expensive camera may end up collecting dust somewhere. Try a low to midrange camera first and get a feel for and what features are most important to you. Then when you’re ready to move up and buy a better , you’ll have a better idea of what to look for before you lay out your hard earned cash!

What To Look For When You’re Ready To Buy A

You can buy in all sorts of places these days, from fancy department stores to discount stores, / and many stores online. While you can sometimes find great deals on-line, if this is your first , go to shops and look at different cameras if at all possible. It helps to pick it up and get the feel of the camera in your hand to see if it’s comfortable and the controls are easy to use, and you can check out what features it has and how they work.

But what exactly are you looking for?

A makes your ….

One of the first things to check out when buying a is the . A is a single dot in a graphics image. A is equivalent to one million pixels. A 1- camera would produce an image roughly 1200 pixels wide by 900 pixels high, a 3 would be 2048 x 1536 , and so on. Higher mean better , but aren’t the whole . The main thing to keep in mind is the more , the bigger image you can print.

Approximate vs. Print Size

2 prints well up to 4×6 inches

3 prints well up to 5×7 inches

4 prints well up to 6×8 inches

6 prints well up to 7×10 inches

8 prints well up to 10×14 inches

12 prints well up to 16×24 inches

For email, websites and printing , a 3 to 5- camera is a good choice. If you want to make high quality 8×10 prints or larger, you need more . Higher also allow you to crop down to a smaller portion of the while still retaining in prints.

One other thing to keep in mind when considering and , be sure you are getting optical . This is the actual number of the camera records. Some cameras offer interpolated to get bigger from the same number of by using software algorithms to determine what color pixels to add, so the becomes bigger at the expense of clarity.

Opt for optical…

have two kinds of , optical and digital. In this case, focus on the optical . It’s the one that actually uses the lens’ to bring the subject closer. The higher the number, the further away you can “pull in” your subject. The digital merely takes the original information and makes it bigger, and once again, clarity is sacrificed. Most serious turn off digital . Stick to optical!

For Your Viewing Pleasure…

commonly use an instead of a to focus on your subject, though some come equipped with both. Check the size of the screen when buying a to be sure you can comfortably see your subject. It’s also really handy to have a flip screen that allows you to hold your camera low or high, and still be able to see what’s on the screen.

Fun features…

Many offer settings for such things as burst shooting mode, which is handy if you want to take of moving subjects. The camera shoots a series of without pause, then writes the files to . Other features allow for manually changing settings, special effects, short digital movie files, using an external , and much more. Look over several different cameras, decide what features you just have to have, and which are on the “nice to have but not vital” list. No one camera will do everything well.

Get the …

You’ve got to get the out of the camera to share them. Usually the files are downloaded to your computer through a USB port, so make sure your computer has one. Also, keep in mind when choosing a camera, the more , the bigger the files. You’ve got to store those files somewhere, so how much is available on your computer? Does it have a CD burner.

However, you can still buy a even if you don’t have a computer. Many labs, even in places like Walmart or Kmart, have machines with the capability of making prints and/or CD’s from cards, and will make a disk of the files, sort of like digital negatives. There’s also the option of buying a printer with a docking station for your camera. Just plug the camera into the docking station, and bypass the need for a computer to print.

Cash After Camera

When buying your , keep some cash in reserve, because there are two more important purchases you need to make.

1. - The ’s equivalent of , the amount of determines how many you can take. Different cameras use different types of , so the first step is to find out what your camera uses. The most popular types are: Secure Digital (SD), (CF), SmartMedia (SM), Stick (MS), MultiMediaCard (MMC), and xD- Card (xD).

Cameras are usually packaged with a small MB-sized card. A second card of 64 MB is good, but of course the more MB and the more cards, the more you can take before having to download and erase the . The different cards are NOT interchangeable, so be sure to buy the right kind for your camera!

2. - There’s nothing more frustrating than being in the middle of snapping and the dies. Get extras. It’s worth the expense to have a second charged and waiting should the one in your camera lose power. The rechargeable ones are more expensive, but the ability to use them over and over makes them worth the initial outlay of cash.

That’s The Total Package!

There you have the basics for choosing a . Decide what kind of you are likely to take, what size prints you want to make, how much , and are there any extras you can’t live without? Look for the camera that most closely matches your list in your price range, buy a bigger card and an extra set, and you’re good to go!

 

Have fun sharing those with friends and family!

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