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Productive Shopping For Digital Cameras
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19 Sep 08 Consumer Reports - Digital Cameras

, which employ reusable cards instead of , give you far more creative control than cameras can. With a , you can transfer shots to your computer, then crop, adjust color and contrast, and add textures and other special effects. Final results can be made into cards or T-shirts, or sent via e-mail, all using the software that usually comes with the camera. You can make prints on a , or by dropping off the card at one of a growing number of photofinishers. You can upload the file to a -sharing Web site for , viewing, and sharing with others.

Like camcorders, have LCD viewers. Some camcorders can be used to take still , but a ’s is no match for a good ’s.

WHAT’S AVAILABLE

The leading brands are , , HP, , , and ; other brands come from consumer-electronics, computer, and and companies.

are categorized by how many pixels, or elements, the contains. One equals 1 million elements. A 3- camera can make excellent 8×10s and pleasing 11×14s. There are also 4- to 8- models, including point-and-shoot ones; these are well suited for making larger prints or for maintaining if you want to use only a portion of the original image. Professional use as many as 14 .

Price range: $200 to $400 for 3 ; $250 to $400 for 4 and 5 ; $300 to $1,000 for 6 to 8 .

IMPORTANT FEATURES

Most are highly automated, with features such as automatic (which manages the , aperture, or both according to ) and autofocus.

Instead of , typically record their shots onto - cards. and (SD) are the most widely used. Once quite expensive, such cards have tumbled in price–a 128-megabyte card can now cost less than $50. Other types of cards used by cameras include Stick, Smart Media and xD- card. A few cameras, mainly some models, use 3 1/4-inch CD-R or CD-RW discs.

To save , you transfer them to a computer, typically by connecting the camera to the computer’s USB or FireWire port or inserting the card into a special reader. Some can take cards and make prints without putting the on a computer first. Image-handling software, such as Adobe Photoshop Elements, Jasc Paint Shop, Microsoft It, and ACDSee, lets you size, touch up, and crop digital using your computer. Most work with both Windows and Macintosh machines.

The file format commonly used for is JPEG, which is a compressed format. Some cameras can save in uncompressed TIFF format, but this setting yields enormous files. Other high-end cameras have a RAW file format, which yields the image data with no processing from the camera.

typically have both an optical and a small color . LCD viewers are very accurate in framing the actual image you get–better than most of the optical viewfinders–but they use more power and may be hard to see in bright sunlight. You can also view shots you’ve already taken on the . Many provide a video output, so you can view your on a TV set.

Certain cameras let you record an audio clip with a . But these clips use additional space. Some allow you to record limited video, but the frame rate is slow and the poor.

A lens provides flexibility in framing shots and closes the distance between you and your subject–ideal if you want to quickly switch to a close shot. The typical 3x on mainstream cameras goes from a moderately wide-angle view () to moderate telephoto (105mm). You can find cameras with extended ranges between 8x and 12x, giving added versatility for outdoor . Other new cameras go down to 24 or 28 mm at the wide-angle end, making it easier to take in an entire scene in close quarters, such as a crowded party.

Optical zooms are superior to digital zooms, which magnify the center of the frame without actually increasing detail, resulting in a somewhat coarser view.

Sensors in are typically about as light-sensitive as ISO 100 , though some let you increase that setting. (At ISO 100, you’ll likely need to use a indoors and in low outdoor light.) A camera’s range tells you how far from the camera the will provide proper exposure: If the subject is out of range, you’ll know to close the distance. But can tolerate some underexposure before the image suffers noticeably.

Red-eye reduction shines a light toward your subject just before the main . (A camera whose unit is farther from the lens reduces the risk of . Computer editing of the image may also correct .) With automatic mode, the camera fires the whenever the light entering the camera registers as insufficient. A few new cameras have built-in red-eye correction capability.

Some cameras that have powerful telephoto now come with image stabilizers. These compensate for camera shake, letting you use a slower than you otherwise could for following movement. But an won’t compensate for the motion of subjects.

Most new 6- to 8- cameras come with full manual controls, including independent controls for shutter and aperture. That gives serious shutterbugs control over depth of field, shooting action, or shooting scene with tricky lighting.

HOW TO CHOOSE

The first step is to determine how you will use the camera most of the time. Consider these two questions:

How much flexibility to enlarge do you need? If you mainly want to make 4×6 , a camera with a 3- or 4- will be fine. Such a camera will also make an 8×10 print of an entire image without alteration that looks as sharp as one from a 6- or 8- model. But to enlarge the image more or enlarge only part of it, you’ll want a 6- to 8- camera.

How much control do you want over exposure and composition? Cameras meant for automatic point-and-shoot , with a 3x- lens, will serve snap shooters as well as dedicate hobbyists much of the time. The full-featured cameras in the 6- to 8- range offer that more-dedicated will want to have. Two of the more important are a range of 5x to 10x or more, which lets you bring distant outdoor subjects close and also lets you shoot candid portraits without getting right in your subject’s face, and a full complement of manual controls that you determine the and lens opening. ‘

Once you’ve established the performance priorities that you need from a camera, you can narrow your choices further by considering these convenience factors:

Size and weight. The smallest, lightest models aren’t necessarily inexpensive 3- cameras. And the biggest and heaviest aren’t necessarily found at the high end. If possible, try cameras at the store before you buy. That way, you’ll know which one fits you hand best and which can be securely gripped. In our tests, we have found that some of the smallest don’t leave much room even for small fingers.

type and life. All can run on rechargeable of one of two types: an expensive pack or a set of AA . In our tests of the cameras, neither type had a clear performance advantage. The best-performing cameras offer upward of 300 shots on a charge, while the worst manage only about 50. We think it’s more convenient to own a camera that accepts AA . You can buy economical, rechargeable cells (plus a charger) and drop in a set of disposable lithium or alkaline if the rechargeable run down in the middle of the day’s shooting.

Camera speed. With point-and-shoot cameras like the ones we tested, you must wait after each shot as the camera processes the image. Most models let you shoot an image every few seconds, but a few make you wait 5 seconds or more. They may frustrate you when you’re taking in sequence.

Your other cameras. If you’re adding a camera to your lineup or trading up to a more versatile model, look first for one that’s compatible with the other cameras. If it is, you can share cards and . Designs within a camera brand line are often similar. So staying wit the brand you have lowers the learning curve on the for family members who switch between cameras.

Copyright © 2002-2006 Consumers Union of U.S., Inc.

For the latest information on this and many other products and services, visit www.ConsumerReports.org.

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18 Sep 08 Top 20 Questions to Consider When Buying a Digital Camera

Author: aldrin garcia

My top 20 key questions to ask yourself when buying a .

1. How many “” /?

Once and for all, at least to me, you have to get the highest your money can buy at the time you buy. Period.

2. Who made the lens?

Most cameras will give you an idea where the lens was made just by looking at the front of the lens. Know if the lens of your camera came from a reputable company like , Zeiss, , Etc… Lens quality is one of the most important factors you should consider especially if you’re going to use it for commercial, technical or scientific purposes.

3. Will I need interchangeable ? How many are available for my specific camera in mind?

Having the option of interchangeable gives you the freedom to experiment with different kinds of focal lengths. Although some P&S (point and shoot) cameras can rival ’s with a generous range for a non interchangeable lens system.

Also note the number of available for use with your specific camera because of flexibility reasons. You can practically cover the entire “ range” with interchangeable versus modest ranges on non interchangeable lens systems or P&S cameras.

4. Does it have a capability? What’s the range?

Almost all applications that I listed above will need some form of zooming in (telephoto) or out (wide angle), especially if you don’t have the space to move around the object you are shooting.

For Landscape shots, wide angle shots are very common and appealing while zooming in on the details serves as a break and complements the wide angle shots.

For weddings and events, you need a because there will be times where you are limited by the shooting space and you will have a difficult time moving around. Its a good thing to know that you can do all sorts of framing without even moving from your position.

A nice will give you the efficiency and versatility in your , so my suggestion is to go for the longest range you can get (usually from a 7X to a 10X for Point and Shoots).

Also note the speed of zooming in or out as this will be a factor if you’re shooting events like weddings. You will fail to capture that “decisive moment” on a mediocre speed.

5. Does it have the provision to capture raw ?

Many will say you’ll need this feature if you want to have big prints from your . Although this is correct, the main reason why you will want this is because of the benefit it will give you…pure total control of your … from exposure, color, metadata, hdr and a lot more.

6. Can I attach an external ?

Having an external capability will give you the power and creative freedom to light your subjects any which way you like.

You can connect your to all sorts of lighting equipment thus giving you more options and versatility. This comes in the form of a hotshoe or a PC-Sync socket.

If your doesn’t have this feature, there is still hope because accessories called slaves are being sold by third party companies in different flavors that will also do the same job more or less.

7. Does it have a tripod socket?

Some of the most beautiful landscape that I’ve seen are undoubtedly made with a tripod, so this is a must have if you are planning to do this kind of .

The “ shots” in a wedding, still life and product shots, studio and fine art shots … all need a tripod for successful execution… so guess what happens if you don’t have a tripod socket?… You cannot effectively use a tripod!

8. Does it have automatic and manual focusing?

It will not be evident at first why you’ll need this especially if you’re just starting out in . But if you’re like me… A total control freak when it comes to cameras… and you really want to express your creative side, this is definitely a must have.

9. Can you attach filters to it? and what filter size?

Creative expression through special effects is just one of the many reasons that makes fun and interesting, and experimenting with filters is one creative pursuit you should try with your especially if you’re a beginner.

Always remember to ask if the particular you are eyeing for can handle filters and ask for the filter size. (To save you from buying the right filter with the wrong filter size) Please note that most should be able to to handle filters as most that come with it have a filter thread built into the lens.

Most P&S (point and shoot) normally doesn’t have a filter thread built-in and might need special accessories to accomplish this so you should check to know for sure.

Again, there are many third party accessories that you could buy to adapt filters to your P&S that don’t have this provisions. I’ll discuss all about this in a future post so watch for it. (Or subscribe to my announcement list (feed via email) so you’ll know when it’s up.

10. Can I upgrade the firmware?

The good thing about some manufacturers is that they keep on improving their even after they sold it to you… this comes in the form of a firmware upgrade.

Usually this involves an improvement on one or many features of a camera. Be sure that the you’re planning to buy has an easy way of upgrading its firmware. This comes in the form of either an easy download via the manufacturer’s website (find it and bookmark it now) or a FREE CDROM.

Another caveat - be sure to consider if a downgrade is also possible or available with your … Why is there a need a downgrade you ask?… Because, you may want to reinstall an earlier firmware… just in case you don’t like the results from a firmware upgrade.

Occasionally there’s a feature that will be removed by the upgrade that you failed to read about and you decided that you just want to keep that feature instead of a bunch of trivial upgrades from the new firmware. (Yes, I personally experienced this.)

11. Are there extra goodies or software that come with it?

Some people ignore the fact that you can save a lot of money just by doing a simple arithmetic. Did you know that you could actually get your for a lot less if you study the deals and offers on the marketplace?

If you buy a and it comes with software that you can really use… like photoshop, elements, or any other software for that matter, then you already saved some money you would otherwise spend. Some dealers will throw in lots of extras… If you just simply ask.

Always try to ask for these things that you’ll end up buying anyway if you don’t - like camera bags, extra , extra , cards, tripod, etc. Trust me… you will end up buying these things if you don’t ask for it on the deal. What have you got to lose? Simply ASK. Would you believe that I effectively lowered one of my cost by as much as 30%? Ask away.

12. Is there Local Support in your area?

Finding the answer to this one will give you a great benefit in the long run. Wouldn’t you sleep better at night because you feel that extra security - that in case there is something wrong with your , you can bring it in for repair at a moments notice?

Not knowing when your camera will be repaired (or if it even arrived at a distant repair facility) is one of the worst feelings a can have especially if you’re in the middle of a photoshoot or project.

13. What type of warranty does it have? Worldwide / Countrywide?

If you travel a lot its good to know that a countrywide or even better - a worldwide warranty can get your camera fixed wherever you are. Always bring the warranty card and glue it on your camera bag.

14. Does it have the ability to take video and audio?

I know, most DSLRs don’t have this function. But some non interchangeable lens DSLRs have it. This is a very useful feature to have if you’re on a project or photoshoot and want to document or record a procedure, a moment, or an idea that you would otherwise have trouble remembering or even writing. It’s always a good idea to bring a P&S camera backup that have this function.

The things that you could do with audio and videoclips on a photoshoot are only limited by your imagination… interviews, documentation, funny quips, training procedures, bloopers, etc..

15. Does it have a manual ?

is one of the most interesting aspects of . Its fun and fascinating to work with. Having this option puts the fun-o-meter way way up. In future posts, I will be discussing in detail so be sure to stay tuned.

16. How sensitive is it to infrared?

If you’re planning to make infrared or enter the exciting world of Infrared fine art then you’ll want to know if your can do it.

TIP: There is a simple way to test how sensitive your is to infrared using a very common device - a TV remote control. For P&S, you can aim the remote control towards the lens and gauge how bright the LED from remote is. This should give you an idea how sensitive your is to infrared. For DSLRs you will need to take shots of the LED and experiment a little or you can simply research or the particular you have in mind for other people’s experiences and thoughts about it.

17. How high is the ISO sensitivity? Is it manually adjustable?

ISO sensitivity is a term referring to the sensitivity of to light. In the world, it refers to the sensitivity of the in your in relation to the ISO standard used for .

The higher the ISO sensitivity of your camera the faster or better it can record a specific amount of light.

High ISO sensitivity is useful for taking better in dark settings… such as inside a church or at night. The higher the ISO setting, the more details you can capture of a dark scene.

One caveat - take note of the amount of noise a particular camera exhibits at higher ISOs. Some people like it and some don’t. Again, don’t be afraid to ask or do research on the noise characteristics of your in mind to see if this is the right choice for you.

18. How high or low can you set the shutterspeed? What are the minimum and maximum aperture settings?

Shutterspeed and aperture settings are the basic mechanisms that drive your camera and controls the amount of light that is exposed by the or .

You use high shutterspeeds in action shots and to prevent camera shake, and you use low shutterspeeds for movement effects and bulb or long exposures. You can check for these figures on the websites that I gave you in part 1. You can see it in the technical specifications for a particular camera.

A bulb or “T” function is a nice feature to have because you can take exposures for virtually very long periods of time. Another feature to have is if your camera has a remote control to use this bulb or “T” mode. This gives you the capability to take without holding your camera and adding to the “camera shake”.

With the subject of apertures, a small one (small aperture opening) lets you have a wider depth of field so your shots are sharp from near to far versus a large aperture (big aperture opening) where your shots have a narrow depth of field and appear “selectively focused”.

19. Does it have some form of an ?

New cameras coming out as we speak often have this feature. Simply put, an is some form of a mechanism built into the lens or the (depending on the manufacturer and their implementation) that basically prevents you from getting blurred when taking in low light or you are using a long or . Having this feature can mean the difference between a blurry (aka no !) to a usable one.

20. How close can it focus? Macro abilities?

The closer your camera can focus… the bigger the of an object you can take in relation to the image dimensions of the final … and the bigger the of the object… the more detail you can get. If you want to take of small objects such as flowers and fine details then this is a must-have.

That’s it. Whew.

Do you really have to go over all these questions?… Of course not, but even if you only study and ponder on half of them…and take the time… I promise you that one thing will surely happen…

You’ll be…

a lot smarter!

than when you first started asking these questions… ergo you’ll be in a better position to decide what to buy… Because you are now armed with the most powerful tool anybody can have

the power of information!

In any case, I hope you find as much value in these questions as many of my friends have and be able to get the camera of your dreams.

Enjoy!

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