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Productive Shopping For Digital Cameras
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19 Sep 08 Consumer Reports - Digital Cameras

, which employ reusable cards instead of , give you far more creative control than cameras can. With a , you can transfer shots to your computer, then crop, adjust color and contrast, and add textures and other special effects. Final results can be made into cards or T-shirts, or sent via e-mail, all using the software that usually comes with the camera. You can make prints on a , or by dropping off the card at one of a growing number of photofinishers. You can upload the file to a -sharing Web site for , viewing, and sharing with others.

Like camcorders, have LCD viewers. Some camcorders can be used to take still , but a ’s is no match for a good ’s.

WHAT’S AVAILABLE

The leading brands are , , HP, , , and ; other brands come from consumer-electronics, computer, and and companies.

are categorized by how many pixels, or elements, the contains. One equals 1 million elements. A 3- camera can make excellent 8×10s and pleasing 11×14s. There are also 4- to 8- models, including point-and-shoot ones; these are well suited for making larger prints or for maintaining if you want to use only a portion of the original image. Professional use as many as 14 .

Price range: $200 to $400 for 3 ; $250 to $400 for 4 and 5 ; $300 to $1,000 for 6 to 8 .

IMPORTANT FEATURES

Most are highly automated, with features such as automatic (which manages the , aperture, or both according to ) and autofocus.

Instead of , typically record their shots onto - cards. and (SD) are the most widely used. Once quite expensive, such cards have tumbled in price–a 128-megabyte card can now cost less than $50. Other types of cards used by cameras include Stick, Smart Media and xD- card. A few cameras, mainly some models, use 3 1/4-inch CD-R or CD-RW discs.

To save , you transfer them to a computer, typically by connecting the camera to the computer’s USB or FireWire port or inserting the card into a special reader. Some can take cards and make prints without putting the on a computer first. Image-handling software, such as Adobe Photoshop Elements, Jasc Paint Shop, Microsoft It, and ACDSee, lets you size, touch up, and crop digital using your computer. Most work with both Windows and Macintosh machines.

The file format commonly used for is JPEG, which is a compressed format. Some cameras can save in uncompressed TIFF format, but this setting yields enormous files. Other high-end cameras have a RAW file format, which yields the image data with no processing from the camera.

typically have both an optical and a small color . LCD viewers are very accurate in framing the actual image you get–better than most of the optical viewfinders–but they use more power and may be hard to see in bright sunlight. You can also view shots you’ve already taken on the . Many provide a video output, so you can view your on a TV set.

Certain cameras let you record an audio clip with a . But these clips use additional space. Some allow you to record limited video, but the frame rate is slow and the poor.

A lens provides flexibility in framing shots and closes the distance between you and your subject–ideal if you want to quickly switch to a close shot. The typical 3x on mainstream cameras goes from a moderately wide-angle view () to moderate telephoto (105mm). You can find cameras with extended ranges between 8x and 12x, giving added versatility for outdoor . Other new cameras go down to 24 or 28 mm at the wide-angle end, making it easier to take in an entire scene in close quarters, such as a crowded party.

Optical zooms are superior to digital zooms, which magnify the center of the frame without actually increasing detail, resulting in a somewhat coarser view.

Sensors in are typically about as light-sensitive as ISO 100 , though some let you increase that setting. (At ISO 100, you’ll likely need to use a indoors and in low outdoor light.) A camera’s range tells you how far from the camera the will provide proper exposure: If the subject is out of range, you’ll know to close the distance. But can tolerate some underexposure before the image suffers noticeably.

Red-eye reduction shines a light toward your subject just before the main . (A camera whose unit is farther from the lens reduces the risk of . Computer editing of the image may also correct .) With automatic mode, the camera fires the whenever the light entering the camera registers as insufficient. A few new cameras have built-in red-eye correction capability.

Some cameras that have powerful telephoto now come with image stabilizers. These compensate for camera shake, letting you use a slower than you otherwise could for following movement. But an won’t compensate for the motion of subjects.

Most new 6- to 8- cameras come with full manual controls, including independent controls for shutter and aperture. That gives serious shutterbugs control over depth of field, shooting action, or shooting scene with tricky lighting.

HOW TO CHOOSE

The first step is to determine how you will use the camera most of the time. Consider these two questions:

How much flexibility to enlarge do you need? If you mainly want to make 4×6 , a camera with a 3- or 4- will be fine. Such a camera will also make an 8×10 print of an entire image without alteration that looks as sharp as one from a 6- or 8- model. But to enlarge the image more or enlarge only part of it, you’ll want a 6- to 8- camera.

How much control do you want over exposure and composition? Cameras meant for automatic point-and-shoot , with a 3x- lens, will serve snap shooters as well as dedicate hobbyists much of the time. The full-featured cameras in the 6- to 8- range offer that more-dedicated will want to have. Two of the more important are a range of 5x to 10x or more, which lets you bring distant outdoor subjects close and also lets you shoot candid portraits without getting right in your subject’s face, and a full complement of manual controls that you determine the and lens opening. ‘

Once you’ve established the performance priorities that you need from a camera, you can narrow your choices further by considering these convenience factors:

Size and weight. The smallest, lightest models aren’t necessarily inexpensive 3- cameras. And the biggest and heaviest aren’t necessarily found at the high end. If possible, try cameras at the store before you buy. That way, you’ll know which one fits you hand best and which can be securely gripped. In our tests, we have found that some of the smallest don’t leave much room even for small fingers.

type and life. All can run on rechargeable of one of two types: an expensive pack or a set of AA . In our tests of the cameras, neither type had a clear performance advantage. The best-performing cameras offer upward of 300 shots on a charge, while the worst manage only about 50. We think it’s more convenient to own a camera that accepts AA . You can buy economical, rechargeable cells (plus a charger) and drop in a set of disposable lithium or alkaline if the rechargeable run down in the middle of the day’s shooting.

Camera speed. With point-and-shoot cameras like the ones we tested, you must wait after each shot as the camera processes the image. Most models let you shoot an image every few seconds, but a few make you wait 5 seconds or more. They may frustrate you when you’re taking in sequence.

Your other cameras. If you’re adding a camera to your lineup or trading up to a more versatile model, look first for one that’s compatible with the other cameras. If it is, you can share cards and . Designs within a camera brand line are often similar. So staying wit the brand you have lowers the learning curve on the for family members who switch between cameras.

Copyright © 2002-2006 Consumers Union of U.S., Inc.

For the latest information on this and many other products and services, visit www.ConsumerReports.org.

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